ATK Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce

Not only is Naples home to the celebrated San Marzano tomato, which thrives on the soil at the base of Mount Vesuvius, but the entire industry of tomato canning grew out of the region in the late 19th and early 20th century. And so the nickname mangiamaccheroni (macaroni eaters) befits the Neapolitans for their propensity to consume vast quantities of pasta in tomato sauce. Pomodoro sauce should use the best of the sweetest tomatoes available, adorned sparingly. It is cooked only briefly to ensure that the sweetness and freshness of the tomatoes is preserved. Since climate and seasonality preclude fresh tomatoes' consistency throughout the year, we developed our recipe with canned whole peeled tomatoes (picked at the peak of ripeness) and pulsed them in the food processor to achieve a sauce that coated our noodles well but still had texture. A single clove of garlic was sufficient to add depth of flavor while letting the tomatoes shine. A Neapolitan might balk at adding sugar to tomato sauce, but we found that just a pinch balanced the acidity of the canned tomatoes. We stirred in the requisite fresh basil just at the end of cooking to preserve its aroma. Undercooking the spaghetti in boiling water and allowing it to finish in the sauce infused the pasta with tomato flavor.